Did you know? One of the most iconic accessories of the Spanish flamenco dance—the Manila shawl—actually traces its roots back to China. The story of this shawl is a journey of craftsmanship, trade, and cultural exchange, woven together by the historical Nao de China (or “Chinese Galleon”) trade route that once connected the East to the West.
The Journey of the Manila Shawl
In the 18th century, the Philippine Islands served as a Spanish colony, and all Eastern goods bound for Europe had to pass through Manila, the trade capital of the Spanish galleon route, the Ruta Galeon de Manila. These vessels carried treasures from China, including luxurious silk fabrics, ceramics, and cork, among others. Chinese artisans produced a special style of embroidered silk shawls, known as “Canton shawls,” which became sought-after goods in Manila and were shipped onward to Europe via Acapulco, a key port in New Spain (modern-day Mexico). This route kept Chinese craftsmanship in high demand as the Manila shawl—adorned with silk embroidery, delicate tassels, and flowing silk texture—quickly gained popularity for its elegance and exotic appeal.
However, the shawl’s origin story became blurred during its journey through Mexico, where some of the goods were sold locally, while others continued to Spain. By the time these finely embroidered shawls reached European shores, they had become known as “Manila shawls” due to their main point of origin, despite being crafted in China. This unique craftsmanship transformed the shawl into a staple accessory, popular among Spanish nobility and even commoners, earning the title of “a must-have in every woman’s wardrobe.”
Changing Tides and New Pathways
The vibrant Manila-Acapulco trade route ceased in the early 19th century, when Mexico declared its independence, cutting off the passage of these goods to Spain. This led to the establishment of direct trade connections between China and Spain, with merchants in Seville attempting to recreate the embroidery craftsmanship locally. By 1896, when the Philippines also sought independence, only one direct trade route remained, compelling the Spanish to develop domestic embroidery workshops to meet the demand. Today, these workshops still carry on the tradition, producing each shawl by hand, sometimes taking up to six or seven months to complete, and selling at impressive market values that reflect the skill and time dedicated to the craft.
In 2007, this tradition was honored by Spain’s Ministry of Culture with the “Gold Medal for Artistic Industry” to one of Seville’s embroidery houses, a testament to the enduring influence of Chinese craftsmanship on global fashion.
The Manila shawl not only reflects a rich heritage of Chinese artistry but also highlights the impact of intercultural trade and influence—a testament to how craftsmanship travels across borders, becoming a universal language of beauty and tradition.
